Gardening

Plants have a tendancy to go in and out of style, much like fashion. Flowers that were popular and much loved in our Grandmothers’ gardens seem forgotten.

Some of these annuals are still available as bedding plants but many are not because they don’t always transplant well. The following nostalgic ones can be direct sown: Aster, Calendula, California Bluebells, Canterbury Bells, Carnations, Clarkia, Cornflower, Cosmos, Dianthus, Four-O’Clocks, Gypsophila, Larkspur, Morning Glory, Painted Sage, Poppies, Queen Anne’s Lace, Salpiglossis, Scabiosa, Sunflowers, Sweet Pea, Statice, & Zinnias.

Growing your own flowers from seed is easy, economical and very rewarding. Try growing favourites that you remember from your Grandmothers’ garden!

A vegetable has to consistently perform well under a variety of conditions to become an All American Selections (AAS) or Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) Award of Garden Merit (AGM) winner. Categories of performance include productivity; resistance to disease & pests; uniformity in size, shape, & colour; & maturity date. There are so many varieties of seeds and plants to choose from. Choosing an award winning variety can make a very significant difference in your garden because much of the research and guesswork has already been done for you.

The following is a list of some vegetable winners that have been successfully grown in our climate:

• Beet – Detroit Dark Red
• Brussels Sprouts – Hestia
• Cabbage – Savoy Express
• Carrot – Purple Haze
• Climbing Bean – Cobra
• Corn – Honey Select
• Cucumber – Green Light
• Eggplant – Fairy Tale
• Fennel – Antares
• Lettuce – Bauer
• Onion – Superstar
• Peas – Shiraz
• Pepper – Red Impact
• Pumpkin – Orange Smoothie
• Radish – Sweet Baby
• Thai Basil – Siam Queen
• Tomato – Floramerica (Beefsteak)
• Zucchini – Gold Rush

Happy Gardening!

Succulents are any kind of plant that stores water in its leaves, stem, or roots to survive dry periods. Thousands of plants are categorized as succulents and come in different shapes, sizes, and colours.

There are some succulents that are hardy and can survive our winters, however most will not overwinter in areas colder than zone 8. They do make great potted annuals or house plants, growing best in bright sunlight.

Succulents need good drainage. Water only when the soil is dry and the leaves look a bit limp. If they start to shrivel and drop off, they needed to be watered sooner rather than later. Terracotta pots are a good choice because they absorb heat so the succulents roots are kept warm and the pots dry out quickly which discourages root rot. Use a good quality potting mix that doesn’t contain slow release fertilizer, but rather fertilize with a 20-20-20 (half dosage) every week or two.

When potting up a large container avoid combining succulents with other types of plants. They will be most successful growing with other succulents. They are easy to grow and propagate from cuttings to provide a continuous supply of plants which can be shared.

Historically gardens were created by taking useful wild plants and resettling them in villages. Plants for the soup pot, plants for healing, useful plants like herbs.

It’s best to plant herbs in a sunny garden location with good drainage; however, if you have a bright window or grow light, you can successfully grow herbs indoors for a fresh year-long supply. These include basil, oregano, parsley, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, marjoram, mint, cilantro, and chives. They can be potted up individually or combined in a large pot based on individual plant requirements. Herbs are fairly low maintenance and generally drought tolerant, preferring to be grown in a mix of tropical plant soil, cactus soil, and perlite.

All plants grow towards the light, so the pots should be turned daily for even growth. Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and feed regularly with organic fertilizer. Annual herbs can be grown from seed, cuttings, or purchased as seedlings from a greenhouse and transplanted.

When harvesting herbs, never remove more than one-third of the total number of leaves and wait for new leaf growth to appear before cutting again. Chives are an exception; all the leaves may be cut at once. Trimming herbs will keep the plants bushy and encourage them to send out new shoots.

Although some care and attention are required to grow herbs indoors, the results are gratifying. Healthy herbs make attractive and aromatic houseplants, as well as being extremely tasty and useful.

I have 52 and counting, and as people walk by my garden, the hydrangeas are the plants they most often ask about. I am by no means a “plant expert”, I just know from experience what works for me. Over 15 years ago, I planted my first hydrangeas: Pink Diamond, and Quick Fire, and both are still thriving. My newer varieties: Limelight, Vanilla Strawberry, Pinky Winky, Firelight, Little Lamb, Phantom, Brussels Lace, Zinfin Doll, and Silver Dollar have proven to be very hardy as well.

Hydrangea, the name originates from the Greek words for “water” and “vessel”, referring to it’s need for plenty of water, and it’s cup shaped flowers. While they are getting established, they require more frequent watering, and also benefit from mulch. Hydrangeas prefer acidic soil, so plant them with a bit of peatmoss mixed into the soil along with some compost. Most do well in sun or part sun, while some do better in part shade. Be sure to check the tag for sun exposure and hardiness (Zone 2 or 3). The “Paniculata” varieties are hardiest for our climate, as opposed to the big leaf “Macrophylla” varieties.

Other than watering, hydrangeas are fairly low maintenance plants. Before the shrub leafs out in early Spring, and then again after the flowers bloom, apply a slow release fertilizer for acid loving plants. I leave the dried flowers on for the Winter, partly because they look pretty covered in snow, and also because it makes the shrubs less appetizing for deer.  I recommend pruning hydrangeas in Spring, after they start to leaf out, so that you can more easily see if there are any branches that are dead or rubbing together, or that need to be removed to maintain the desired shape.

The flowers can be used for beautiful, long-lasting bouquets, if you immerse the woody stems in water immediately after cutting them. They also make great dried flowers.

10 Tips For Growing Great Tomatoes

Tomatoes come in a variety of colours, shapes, and sizes. Consider trying heirloom varieties for exceptional flavour.
Whatever you choose to grow, I hope the following information will be helpful.

1. Tomatoes are sun worshippers that need 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. They prefer to grow in the same place year after year, unlike
   most other vegetables. Plant in a new location if you have previously had an issue with disease.
2. As tomatoes are tender plants and will not tolerate frost, plant them in late Spring. Plants will need to be “hardened off ” before being planted in the garden. This involves gradual exposure to sunlight while being sheltered from extreme winds, cold, and heavy rain.
3. Plant deeply to encourage a strong root system. Tomatoes have the ability to produce roots all along their stem.
   If the plant is tall and/or spindly, lay it in a trench and plant sideways. A shorter plant will become a sturdier and healthier plant.
4. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. They benefit from compost and tomato fertilizer. You can create your own organic mix by digging in crushed egg shells (calcium), one tsp epsom salt (magnesium), and a few alfalfa pellets (nitrogen), along with the compost and soil in your pot or garden bed. To help avoid magnesium deficiency, which causes leaves to turn yellow, water every 2 weeks with a mixture of 1 Tbsp epsom salt per gallon of water.
5. Great companion plants for tomatoes are basil, carrots, marigolds, nasturtiums, chives, onions, and parsley. Garlic planted between tomatoes will protect them from red spider mites.
6. Red pots apparently increase yields and make the fruit set earlier. Research has shown that red reflects a certain spectrum of
   light, triggering photosynthesis to stimulate development and growth.
7. Water from below, and water deeply. Mound up a circular dam of soil around each plant to hold the water. Avoid watering from the top as tomatoes do not like to have their leaves wet. Water consistently, around the same time each day, preferably morning, and do not let the plants dry out. Erratic watering and heavy rainfall can cause fruit splitting and blossom end rot.
8. Tomato plants are either Determinate (bushy) or Indeterminate (viney).
   Determinate tomato plants are usually early variety with short stems and fewer than 3 leaves on the vine between flower clusters.
   They grow naturally to a predetermined height and don’t need pruning – fruit ripens in a shorter time, often all at once.
   Indeterminate tomato plants are late variety. Their stems grow indefinitely and the fruit ripens over a longer period of time. They
   respond well to being grown in a tomato cage. Some of the non-fruiting branches can be pruned off later in the season to provide
   more plant energy and sunlight to the fruit.
9. You can save the seeds from your favourite tomato plants. Scoop the seeds out of a very ripe tomato, spread them on a paper towel to dry, and then fold it up to save the seeds to plant the following year.
10. Harvest tomatoes before it frosts, leaving 2 inches of stem when cutting them off the vine. This ensures better flavour after ripening. If they are still green, place in a box between layers of newspaper and store at room temperature in a dark place (like under the bed). You can add an apple to the box to speed up the ripening process. Apples release ethylene gas, which causes tomatoes to turn red. Tomatoes will naturally give off ethylene gas when left to ripen on the vine. When storing tomatoes, divide into boxes based on levels of ripeness. Check frequently and enjoy your fresh tomatoes well into the Fall.

If you have questions regarding pruning your various types of tomato plants, check out this video: youtu.be/q4IUhZMA9O0

Haskap bushes, also referred to as honeyberry, are easy to grow, highly nutritious, versatile, and hardy to zone 2. Each bush needs to be planted with a compatible pollinator, so check the tags when purchasing. The bushes are fairly drought tolerant once they get established but should be watered well the first year and will benefit from a slow release fertilizer as well as mulching. The bushes flower early and are wonderful for attracting bumblebees to your garden. Birds, especially waxwings and robins, love to eat the berries, so I would advise netting the bushes before the berries ripen.

The U of S Fruit Program has been planting and breeding haskaps since 2001 and has created a number of great tasting varieties including some newer later ripening ones. For more information check out their website at:
research-groups.usask.ca/fruit/Fruit%20crops/haskap.php .

In terms of using haskaps, I basically substitute them in recipes that use berries, like blueberries and saskatoons. I put them in smoothies, muffins, pancakes, scones, loaves, and mix them with other fruit in crumble dessert . I make sauce for crepes, ice cream, cake or cheesecake. The berries have a tartness to them so in sauces you may need to add extra sugar, depending on your taste. Fresh berries are delicious on cereal or in salads. I also mix them with oil, vinegar and honey to make salad dressing. Haskaps also make good jam, pies, and tarts.

My favourite recipe that has been popular with friends is Haskap Cheesecake, which can be found in the recipes section of this page.

Crust
2 cups graham or chocolate crumbs
1/2 cup butter (melted)

Filling
1 pkg. cream cheese (250 g)
1/2 cup sugar (light brown or white)
3 eggs separated
1 cup haskap berries (fresh or frozen) plus additional 1/2 cup saved for the top

Mix crumbs with butter. Press into 10” pie plate.
Whip together cream cheese and sugar. Add 3 egg yolks and 1 cup haskap berries. Blend well.
In another bowl, whip the egg whites until fluffy but not stiff.
Fold egg whites into the cream cheese mixture. Pour mixture over crumb base.
Sprinkle on the remaining 1/2 cup of haskaps.
Bake 350° for 35-40 min. The centre of the cheesecake will not be completely set but will jiggle slightly. It will set as it cools.
When cool, cover and refrigerate several hours before serving.